How Independent Stores and Designers Keep Sustainable Fashion Moving Forward
In 2011, I took over Carbon, an indie, high-end shoe store, mainly men’s shoes. I first met the owner when his store occupied less than 350 square space, a walk-down, in a Washington, DC neighborhood known for its mix of indie boutiques and jazz bars. He eventually closed the store and reopened in Woodley Park, known for tourists visiting the National Zoo. It was at the new location where he hosted my grand opening for My Signature Look styling services in 2006. It would not be a party without a fashion show featuring local designer wares. Miraculously, he survived the 2008 recession and few out years before deciding to move on. However, he was looking for someone to take over the store, and I jumped at the opportunity.
I had zero business acumen for retail, but I was driven to make DC a destination for sustainable fashion. I kept the store name (my spin – to reduce your carbon footprint), and stocked it with local and national brands that produced their product along the sustainable spectrum – made locally or in a garment factory in the United States at small volume, natural and vegan materials, and B-Corps certification. In the nation’s capital, Carbon was among a handful of eco-friendly brick-and-mortar stores. Other indie boutiques incorporated a few eco-friendly options. I can’t discount the numerous vintage clothing outlets and consignment stores that had their loyal customers. In addition to Small Business Saturday, started by American Express the year before in 2010, DC had a growing small business movement where “shop local” resonated with residents. I still have the “Think Global, Buy Local” t-shirt. However, the farm-to-table trend steadily took over with consumers more likely to consume an organic meal than purchase a 100% organic cotton dress.
I successfully maximized my public relations skills and quickly found my products featured in the local newspaper, store event announcements regularly appeared on fashion bloggers’ Twitter accounts, and it even led to an award for my efforts in promoting local designers and sustainable fashion. On a monthly basis, I hosted a designer for a pop-up show, collaborated with other artists and designers for store fashion shows, and styled a collection for DC’s first eco-fashion show. People came from across town and visitors not too tired from a day at the zoo popped into shop. Fellow boutique owners I had developed a rapport with would recommend my store, and I did vice versa. My passion was yielding positive attention.
Yet the store closed 11 months later. I could not sell for the life of me. Do you know how hard it is to get someone to try on a pair of shoes? My price point was competitive, but not outrageous. As much as I kept operations lean, the rent became unattainable. I was fortunate to walk away unscathed due to very understanding landlords (something I know was not commonplace in the District). All my consigned designers paid in full.
Despite the outcome, becoming a shop owner was one of the best decisions I made, risks and all. It offered an incredible platform to showcase how sustainable fashion could be innovative, sophisticated, and functional. The clothes, accessories, handbags, and shoes told their origin story, designed intentionally with care and commitment to the environment and the workers who made it. It also spotlighted the creative talent in the community who understood the reward of leaving a small carbon footprint.
Several of the apparel brands I carried have closed. The exception is Kim Schalk. I discovered her label at Nana’s boutique. Kim, a former shop owner who started her own line, Miss Agnes Help Me, designed for women looking for something funky and bold. I fell in love with her tops made from repurposed kimonos and A-line skirts made from tulle remnants. I sought her out and interviewed her for a My Signature Look blog. A friendship formed instantly. When I took over Carbon, her collection was always the first to sell out. Her craft continues to win her clients over, not only her ability to design the perfect silhouette, but because her commitment to slow fashion has not wavered.
Another favorite local designer who is still going strong is Nora Fischer. The former interior designer turned her creativity into jewelry design. Her custom designs take hours of precise metalwork to shape cuffs, earrings, and necklaces into pure elegance. Working with reclaimed and recycled sterling silver, she offers a modern version of Art Deco and Hollywood old glam.
Before Allbirds and Veja, Oliberte ignited the trend. What intrigued me most was the company’s story. Tal Dehtiar started the footwear brand only two years earlier to show the world what his birth country, Ethiopia, had to offer. Using only sustainable materials and artisanal craftsmanship, Oliberte found quick success. They built their own factory, which became the first designated Fair Trade Certified in the world. The desert boot was a top seller at Carbon. In 2019, they shifted their operations to Canada and earlier this year closed.
Sustainable fashion’s greatest achievement was never simply selling eco-friendly clothing. It was proving that style, innovation, craftsmanship, and conscience could exist in the same space, and ultimately influence a billion-dollar industry. Many of the early pioneers did not survive, but their ideas did. Today’s focus on slow fashion, ethical production, recycled materials, and transparency reflects the impact of those small brands, local boutiques such as Carbon, and independent designers who believed in a different model long before the market caught up. Sustainable fashion may have started as a quiet alternative, but over the last twenty years it has become one of the most powerful forces shaping the modern fashion industry. I’m excited that Green Trotter is here to help.
Don’t wait for Small Business Saturday, your support for independently owned stores keeps the lights on all year long. Please consider shopping local 😊.